יום שישי, 24 בינואר 2020

Beginning / Desert time


Beginning  
David Michaeli 
English Translation: Efrat Yaari

I remember, at the age of three or four, the vast openness demarcated far, far away, by blueish cloudy mountains. A trail progressing endlessly through the day and then cutting through the night. I remember the stars, the darkness and an impression of a never-ending journey suspended in the middle of the warm twilight of the world, intermittently interrupted by the tiny lights of a distant town. Time after time, my brother and I, joined my father the road guide. We crossed Nabataean cities buried in dust, abandoned Byzantine basilicas, Roman bridges, white stone walls, wide dry riverbeds dotted by retama broom bushes. Concrete passageways protect the bright, narrow roads from flash floods, the flat tops of thorny acacias mirroring the plains. 
I remember the old casbah of a deserted desert town. A yellowish street along an adobe wall lined with dusty flame trees. A house of sun-dried earth and straw, a green patch of cool, shady, grassy miracle concealing in its backyard. At night, clammy tree-frogs silently climb the mosquito nets protecting the windows. I watch them from my spot on the chilly floor tiles as sleep takes over.
My feet still feel the smooth muddy loess under the running water…
I remember layers of white rock with promising a cool relief from the endless road that quivers in the heat and dust. We would descend the steep diagonal path, crossing skewed rock layers, happily greeting the first salt cedar tree, and – twenty minutes later - the deep cistern of dark water.
I remember a cloud of locusts rising from behind, covering the sky and draping us. Driving as insects drop on the windows like dark rain, and smash beneath the wheels. At home, everything was covered by locusts. The sky speckled as far as I can see; an incessant buzz in the air. We collected the insects and fried them in oil, like the Yemenites do.
Red walls of rock, black mountains, green stones. A square crystal of salt collected on a real salt mountain of indescribable magnitude melting on a shelf. A clock of salt. It is now the size of my fist. I used to love licking it. 
I remember the small black desert cobra that fell into the dark green cistern twisted like a lethal bracelet. 
I was a teen the first time I headed to the desert, to the rock, alone. I went back again and again.  Bend after bend of the dry infinitely winding wadi.
Once I was swallowed by a white ravine that sucked me in like a piece of candy. It spat me out, parched and hallucinating, and watched me weakly crawl up its edge. I was freezing cold. My temperature surged fast. I shivered. The soil was burning at fifty degrees Celsius. When I could no longer stand, I crawled on all four to a green toad rush. There was a damp strip of water on a rock. I laid by the thin layer of mud and licked the dampness. I licked and licked for a very long while.
I have seen people die in the desert; boundless plains cleaved by tracks of tanks and off-road vehicles; wide spaces and the cardinal directions inscribed on maps, weapons, burnt metal and oil, charred palm trees.
The sacred boulders of the Sinai, ice upon the High Mountain, the granite, the red sands, turquoise mines, 6,000-year-old stone domes, hot springs. The desert has no boundaries.
I ventured out to the desert in distant places. I saw towers of stone, magnificent cactuses, full moons rising, a rattlesnake. Sacred pools glowing in turquoise-blue and engulfed in travertine frames, an enormous lake basined in bare rock and arches of rock. Once I traveled for three days on shimmering, sweltering iron rails amidst a cloud of red dust and parked in a stifling mist of yellow and orange butterflies. I visited dried up cities of stone and red fortresses that had long been forgotten. Stone gates towering six stories high open to oceans of sand.
In a city made of stone, at the far edge of a desert, I learned to observe with a painter's eye. For four years the desert breathed behind my window, thickening and blurring my blood with its hot, demented easterly winds, overwhelming me with scents of carob and stone. Then, I turned west.   
The mold of the vast empty desert in me made all the other places small and insignificant. To my dismay, it eventually made them taste bland. Each attempt to settle down was doomed to fail. I created my own private wasteland in the middle of the labyrinth. I moved around like an urban nomad, watching the sun rise and set over the metropolitan cliffs.
One day I ran into an old friend. He had known me since birth. Our fathers were friends. We used to run in the sand dunes amidst white lilies and primrose flowers. We used to collect locusts together. We both remember walls of dried mud and the tree frogs. Together we used to descend the great cliff. The desert sets our bearing. We reunited in the wilderness. The paths we walked were very similar and very different. He followed a track paved with clay artifacts and ancient lots. At one time he had almost succumbed to the desert. He played with flames and metal, traveled through foreign countries, and never stopped talking to the desert. A tireless nomad, a genius fieldcraft artist and a teacher of the desert. We re-met in the ancient low-lying oasis cradeled by tall precipices, covered at night by a blanket of heat. He took me back to the desert from the labyrinth.
Come, he called out to me, come. He awakened within me the dormant art of our childhoods, the art of the wilderness. Once again, I saw the big stars in the sky and the blueish sketch of the ridges on the horizon.


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